| Title: | Extracts of letter from E. H. Lamont, California |
|---|---|
| ID | 3552 |
| Collection | Irish Emigration Database |
| File | lamont, e.h/40 |
| Year | 1849 |
| Sender | Lamont, E.H. |
| Sender Gender | male |
| Sender Occupation | unknown |
| Sender Religion | unknown |
| Origin | San Francisco, California, USA |
| Destination | unknown |
| Recipient | unknown |
| Recipient Gender | unknown |
| Relationship | unknown |
| Source | The Belfast News-Letter, Friday, 14 December, 1849 |
| Archive | The Central Library, Belfast |
| Doc. No. | 101137 |
| Date | 14/12/1849 |
| Partial Date | |
| Doc. Type | EMG |
| Log | Document added by LT, 11:01:01. |
| Word Count | 2045 |
| Genre | |
| Note | N.B. extracts of letters by Lamont |
| Transcript | CALIFORNIA. A letter from our young townsman, Mr. E. H. Lamont, who has recently landed at San Francisco, has been received by his friends. The following extracts will be read with interest:- The town of Valparaiso, as seen from the sea, lies at the extremity of its spacious bay, stretching along the beach, in a half crescent form. A series of hills run at right angles with the town, terminating in bluffs so close to the shore as to leave little building room between them and the beach; so that the town between the beach and the cliffs consists, principally, of two range of streets, save where the hills are divided, the ravines between them being densely crowded with houses, which are built up the acclivities of the mountains, the hills, in some cases, being entirely covered with red-roofed white cottages. In winter, during our visit, the hills were tolerably well clothed with verdure, their sides being perfectly green, but the tops, in many places, having a red scorched appearance. * * * * * * * * * * The ship's papers having been examined over, then came the passenger-boats clamouring for hire. I had made arrangements with a party of ten that we should land together, and for two dollars we procured a boat. I was among the first over the ship's side; soon we were all right, and I gave the word, " Pull away, my hearties." The Chilanos, joining in the laugh that emanated from our overflowing spirits, took up the word, " Pully way, marties," increasing our merriment; and, brimful of mirth and happiness, we reached the shore in less than no time. * * * * * * * * * * * The day of our landing, the 15th of July, was the middle of their winter, yet it was as warm on shore as our midsummer, without that oppressive closeness commonly felt by us in such hot weather. The evenings were cool - one day it rained all day lightly, another part of a day heavily; and this, during our fortnight's stay in this charming place, I learned was a fair sample of their winter weather. Their summer is not greatly warmer - the climate is delightful and healthy, the country fruitful and luxurious, and its native productions numerous, yielding nearly all kinds of grain, vegetables, and fruit - oranges, grapes, figs, almonds, etc., and wheat, which is largely exported, is of a very superior quality. The wine of some parts is tolerably good, and, from the quality of grapes, might be much better if care were bestowed on its manufacture. That made about Valparaiso, which is indifferent, brings about two dollars per gallon; everything, however, during our stay, owing to the great influx of strangers, was uncommonly dear. Chile is, also, rich in minerals, especially silver, the mines of Filipe being among the richest in the world. During the time I remained, the Panama steamer came in, having called at the Northern intermediate ports, and brought with it, as usual, from the mines a quantity of silver, which I saw - bars of about two feet long and a-half thick, in various piles, in and about the Custom-house, with the porters sitting on them as on any other merchandise, while they were being removed in open ox-carts for transmission elsewhere, without seeming to cause the least curiosity. At home we would have had crowds looking with envious eyes at such a sight. There were also, quantities of metal tubes of quicksilver lying in the same unguarded manner in the street. * * * * * * * * * * * I believe the Southern Province to be a much better field for emigration than any of the British colonies, especially the neighbouring one of Australia, for here is a still superior climate, a more fruitful soil, with what Australia is deficient in, bays and navigable rivers. In the districts offered to the emigrants they are, also, nearer that great new market, San Francisco, which will be principally supplied with flour from Chile; and, as California must, for a length of time, remain a non-producing country, with a rapidly increasing population, the consumption of land produce will be great. Commerce could be added to agriculture by an enterprising colony; and I believe that as much or more might be made here with more quietness and happiness than in the gold regions. The people of the country are said to be honest, hospitable, and gracious to strangers. Since the war of independence, the country has improved, in every respect; travelling is now safe in all parts. * * * * * * * * * * * * Horse-racing and cock-fighting, which I Have witnessed here, seem to be the principal amusements of the country people. In Valparaiso they are fond of theatricals, music, and dancing. During my stay, I was fortunate enough to be present at one of their philharmonic concert balls. The rooms of this society were spacious and lofty, neatly, if not elegantly fitted up; the ball- room, as well as the refreshment and dressing-rooms, being carpeted. Possibly, it was paved with brick, as I have seen the upper stories of several houses here. I dare say this is done for economy, the wood of the country being generally hard, and building timber expensive. The music was good, and the whole entertainment very agreeable. An excellent privilege exists here for strangers, that a gentleman may ask a partner to dance, without introduction. The few words I know of badly- spoken Spanish, which I stuck in on all possible occasions, afforded much amusement to my fair companions; and if I question if I did not come off as well as if I had been a perfect Spanish Don, as far as the talking was concerned. The ball and house dress of the ladies is much the same as at home - save, perhaps, a little richer - and the hair of young ladies is worn in plaits down the back. In the street, a beautiful shawl is commonly thrown over the head, falling considerably beyond the waist. The Church dress is of black, with black embroidered shawl, set off by a brilliantly coloured little kneeling carpet carried in front, as some of our young ladies do their prayer-books; and, thus walking along, with downcast eyes, their duennas behind them, the Spanish ladies appear the very type of devotion. It is a common saying here, that the French ladies should be seen in the street, the English ladies in the house, and the Spanish ladies anywhere; and, though their faces are far from beautiful, being rather broad, the little turned up nose and short upper lip give them a piquante expression. Their eyes are almost universally dark, large, and lustrous, their hair black and straight, and the rich warm tinge of their skin is enhanced by the deep red of their lips, which, however, they should always keep shut - save that this would prevent your hearing their very musical voices - for opening them usually exposes teeth crooked and dark, which repel a nearer approach to their ruby companions. I left Chile with greater regret than I could have believed it possible to have experienced after so short a stay. It is the land of the picturesque, and the hand of the artist alone could give you an idea of the scenes that vary in novelty and beauty on which side soever you turn - writing cannot give you a proper description of them. The sides of the hills are covered with hyacinths, cactuses, and many other flowering plants only seen in our hot-houses, whilst numerous aromatic shrubs perfume the atmosphere, as you brush your way through them; and the gilded plumage of the little humming-bird, as it flutters from flower to flower, enlivens the scene. Yet there were several of our fellow passengers who could see no beauty in the place. The morning of the 28th of September found us a few miles beyond our destination (San Francisco); fortunately a brig which was sailing out came near us, and gave us the requisite information as to the bearings of the harbour. The weather was finer than it had been for some time, and our course was near the shore, of which we had a fine view, and were much prepossessed in favour of this part of it, which, however, appeared more picturesque than fertile, being mountainous - the bold coast occasionally opening and showing beautifully sheltered valleys, where one might spend a retired and happy lifetime, if a happier home was not open to him. We entered the harbour, which is rocky and bold to the North, but has sloping sandy hills to the South, with, occasionally, in the hollows, green spots, where we could descry, even at this distance from the city, a mile or more, the tents of the emigrants. On rounding the fort point, the magnificent bay of San Francisco lay like a placid sea before us, the bright sun shining on its sparkling waters. The mists that hang around the coast, damping the spirits as they do its shores, are here entirely dissipated. A perfect forest of masts presented itself to our view, lying inside the harbour, which is round the Southern point of the bay, and protected outside by a beautiful wooded conical island. The town itself - I beg its pardon, city, as it is called - is situated on the rise of a sandy hill, and is a most miscellaneous collection of all sorts and sizes of habitations, the hovel of boughs, the tent, the shanty of wood and canvas, the neat little Spanish casa, and the British warehouse. Its inhabitants are as grotesque as its houses; Americans, English, Mexicans, Indians, Malays, Chinese, Sandwich Islanders, Negroes, &c., in various costumes are bustling about, all employed at immense sums. A carpenter, a young lad of our ship, got immediately on landing, fourteen dollars per day for his work. At the diggings, a labourer gets eight dollars per day, but they average about ten dollars per day on their own account. To go from the ship to shore costs a dollar each man; to take one or two trunks from the wharf up the city, two dollars. Ground and houses are at an enormous price. The market has been over- stocked with most kinds of goods. The duties are 33« per cent., ad valorem; the landing expenses are enormous. Yet money is flying about here like dirt; people seem to think nothing of dollars. We got the tent and some of our luggage on the shore, having previously agreed for a piece of ground to pitch it on, at the top of the town - a healthy situation, from which we have a delightful view of the harbour, and enclosed by a paling, which makes it secure. For the spot on which the tent stands, we pay 10 dollars per month, or about ÷27 a year, which is considered very cheap. There are many places we could get for nothing, but they are either remote or unhealthy. Around us are the tents of several of our shipmates, I believe all bound for the diggings. After erecting the tent, another young fellow and myself went to the well, in a valley about a quarter of a mile over the hill, for water, where we met several others employed in the same manner, all very gentlemanly persons. Indeed, occupation is no criterion of birth here - you may see a boatman or a cart-driver with gold spectacles and diamond ring, finding he can make more by his hands than his head. Oh! this California is a sad leveller. In the meantime, M- went to buy meat and bread, four loaves, worthy about 1s. at home, costing a dollar. The meat, however, is only 9d. per pound. We were very comfortable after our dinner of boiled beef and soup, with biscuit mashed in it, which, though I say it that should not, having, on this occasion, installed myself cook, was pronounced excellent; and I must say I relished it highly. Gambling is the prevailing vice here. This is carried to a dreadful extent, and thousands are squandered at the gaming-table. the place, however, though there is no regular police, seems perfectly quiet, and life and property as safe at San Francisco as at home. E. H. LAMONT. San Francisco, October 1st, 1849. |
